Dress form method and means

ABSTRACT

A kit for making a custom dress form comprises in combination a packaging container containing a stretchable, tubular jersey for wearing on a model&#39;&#39;s torso, a sheet of thin, flexible fabric material of sufficient size to form the components of a standard garment pattern, a container containing a spray adhesive for application to the fabric material to adhere the material to the jersey, a sheet of fabric-foam laminate material comparable in size to the sheet of fabric material, and instructions for combining the materials and adhesive and jersey to make the form.

United States Patent [191 Vercollone [451 Sept. 23, 1975 1 DRESS FORMMETHOD AND MEANS [76] Inventor: Flora M. Vercollone, 17A Ginn Rd.,

Winchester. Mass. 01890 [22] Filed: May 28, 1974 [21] Appl. No.: 473,682

[52] U.S. C1. 206/223; 223/68; 206/232; 2/243 B [51] Int. Cl. B65D69/00; B65D 71/00 [58] Field of Search 206/223, 232, 229, 45.31,206/278; 2/243 B; 223/68 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS2,720,964 10/1955 Hopper 206/223 2,985,345 5/1961 Hiscock l. 223/683,075,677 1/1963 Meisenberg. 223/68 3,096,916 7/1963 Ronell v 223/683,136,412 6/1964 Karosen 206/4531 3,140,023 7/1964 Cella 223/683,313.044 4/1967 Glass et a1. 223/68 3,334,003 8/1967 Edwards 206/229Primary ExaminerWi1liam T Dixson, Jr. Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Ces.ariand McKenna [57] ABSTRACT A kit for making a custom dress form comprisesin combination a packaging container containing a stretchable, tubularjersey for wearing on a models torso, a sheet of thin, flexible fabricmaterial of sufficient size to form the components of a standard garmentpattern, a container containing a spray adhesive for application to thefabric material to adhere the material to the jersey, a sheet offabric-foam laminate material comparable in size to the sheet of fabricmaterial, and instructions for combining the materials and adhesive andjersey to make the form.

2 Claims, 5 Drawing Figures US Patent Se t. 23,1975 3,907,107

"iillll lmnmmm FIG. 4 Fig. 5

DRESS FORM METHOD AND MEANS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION This inventionrelates to a method and means for making a dressmaking form and to theform itself. It relates more specifically to a form of this type whichcan be constructed by the dressmaker herself in her own home.

There are numerous dressmaking forms on the market which are intended tohelp women make wellfitting dresses, blouses, skirts and other garments.Invariable, these dress forms reproduce as closely as possible the bodymeasurements of the particular model. Present-day forms are evenadjustable so that as the models body measurements change, correspondingchanges can be made in the dress form.

Because they are made to exact body measurements, conventional dressforms do not provide perfectly fitted garments. Figure abnormalities andsingularities are not accounted for; nor do prior dress forms accountfor the ease and comfort required by the particular model, which factorsmay vary substantially from one person to the next. Consequently, whenusing the prior dress forms, the dressmaker must estimate where and howmuch to modify the basic commericl pattern to allow for them. That isvery difficult for a non-professional to do. Most women end up byfitting the garment to the dress form after it is partially assembledand estimating the changes that must be made to make the garment fit.This is not only a timeconsuming process, but is is quite difficult. Itrequires the ability to analyze the particular problem and steps neededto correct it. Even then, there is a good possibility that the user hasalready cut away the fabric needed to make the required corrections. Itis also difficult to transfer corrections from a basic pattern ofdifferent style as has been suggested. This is because such transferrequires knowledge of flat pattern drafting.

Because of these and other difficulties with conventional dress forms,they are not used as much as they should be to facilitate the making ofcustom-fitted garmerits.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, it is an object of the presentinvention to provide an improved method of making a custom dress form.

A further object of the invention is to provide an im proved method formaking a dress form for use primarily to correct commercial dresspatterns.

A further object of the invention is to provide a kit for making theabove-described dress form.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a dress form whichsubstantially eliminates the need to estimate corrections to acommercial dress pattern to accommodate ease or singularities in themodels figure.

Other objects will in part be obvious and will in part appearhereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises the several steps and the relationof one or more such steps with respect to the others and the articleembodying the features of construction. combination of elements andarrangements of parts which are adapted to effect such steps. all asexemplified in the following detailed disclosure. and the scope of theinvention will be indicated in the claims.

Briefly, my method entails the making of a dress form which allows forease and does account for all the models relevant figure singularities.As such, the form is ideally suited to correct standard commercialdressmaking patterns.

The dress form is constructed from components preferably supplied in kitform including nylon pattern material, adhesive spray, a fabric-foamlaminate and a cotton jersey. The nylon material is cut in accordancewith a commercial dressmaking pattern, with the various datum points,seam lines, darts, etc. being transferred from the pattern to the nylonmaterial. The model then dons the jersey and the usual dressmakingpoints and lines indicating the neckline, shoulder seam, armholes, etc.are marked on the body and the jersey.

Next, adhesive spray is applied to each section of the nylon fabricwhich is fitted to and molded against the corresponding area of thebody. Then, the points and lines previously marked on the body aretransferred to the nylon fabric. Following this, the nylon fabricsections are removed and stitched together along the indicated seamlines. The model then dons the resulting nylon fabric sheel andadditional alterations in the various points, lines, darts, etc. aremade to insure a proper fit.

The nylon sections are then taken apart and used as pattern masters formaking corresponding pattern sections on the fabric-foam laminate.Various points and lines are transferred from each nylon section to thecorresponding laminate section. The laminate is cut in accordance withthe master and the various laminate sections stitched together to createthe finished form.

The form not only corresponds to the models figure, but also allows forthe ease and comfort best suited to that particular model. Accordingly,the form can be used to correct most commercial patterns to compensatefor ease, comfort and any singularities in the models figure. Thesemodifications to the commercial dress pattern need not be estimated. Thedressmaker simply molds the pattern sections to the form whereupon theneededalterations are readily apparent and can be marked on the pattern.Accordingly, very wellfitting garments can be made from commercialpatterns in most styles.

The technique disclosed here greatly simplifies the art of homedressmaking. The kit for making the dress form is relatively inexpensiveand the components thereof used as directed will produce a dress formmatched to the needs of the model in terms of figure singularities, easeand comfort.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS For a fuller understanding of thenature and objects of the invention, reference should be had to thefollowing detailed description taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a dress form made in accordance withthis invention;

FIG. 2 is a top view of the kit from which the FIG. 1 form is made;

FIG. 3 is a top plan view illustrating a component of the FIGv 2 kitused to make the form,

FIG. 4 is a view of another component fitted and molded to a model; and

FIG. 5 is a top plan view of another component of the FIGv 2 kit beingcut to shape to make the FIG. 1 form.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Turning to FIG. 1 in thedrawings, a hollow dress form indicated generally at is convenientlysupported by any suitable means such as, for example, the waste basketindicated in dotted lines at 12 projecting into the bottom of the dressform. The form is made of a fabric-polyurethane foam laminate and, whenformed into the indicated generally tubular shape, it is self-.supporting. If desired, the form may be filled with suitable stuffing(not shown) tomake it more rigid.

The form 10 is shaped to include any figure abnormalities orsingularities of the person represented by the form and the form alsoallows for the ease and comfort required in the garments for thatperson.

lndicia representing the usual dressmaking points and lines are providedon the outside of the form. These lines include a neckhole line 14, thearmhole lines 16, the center front and center back lines 22, waistline24, dart seams 25, side seam lines 26, balance line 27, as well asothers. By draping the various sections of a commercial dress pattern atthe corresponding locations on form 10, the various points and lines onthe pattern may be corrected to correspond with those on the form. Inthis way, the commercial pattern can be altered to accommodate anyspecific figure problem of the model, as well as to allow for therequired amount of ease in the finished garment.

In addition to using the form 10 to correct commer cial patterns asnoted above, it can also be used for designing details or drapingfabrics.

Turning now to FIG. 2, the form 10 is made from components sold in theform of a kit 32. The kit in cludes a supply of nylon pattern fabricmaterial 34, a can 36 of adhesive spray, a supply of fabricpolyurethanefoam laminate 38 and a tubular cotton jersey 42. The fabric materialsare all stored conveniently in roll form in kit 32 which is packaged andsold as a unit along with an instruction booklet 44.

Referring now to FIGS 3 and 4, to construct the form, the nylon fabricmaterial is taken from the kit and spread out flat. Then, using thevarious pattern sections from a standard commercial dress pattern, thenylon material is cut to form corresponding pattern sections. FIG. 3shows the commercial pattern section P for the front bodice superimposedon fabric 34 with the fabric cut to allow a two inch seam allowance allaround. Using the other sections of the commercial pattern, similarsections of nylon material 34 are made to form the remaining patternsections (not shown) for the garment. Thus, in addition to patternsections for the sides, there is a skirt pattern, say, sixteen incheslong and a sleeve pattern which allows ease at the bicep ofapproximately one-quarter to two inches according to the fullness of thearm.

The nylon pattern sections are marked with the usual center front line46 (FIG. 4) and the crossgrain is marked at:

l. armpit level on back bodice section 1 inch above underarm seam) shownat 52 in FIG. 4,

2. chest level on front bodice section (4 inches below mid-shoulderseam) indicated at 54 in FIG. 3,

3. derriere level on back skirt section (1 inch below end of dart),

4. derriere level on front skirt section (same level as back),

5. armpit level on sleeve section 1 inch above underarm seam), and

6. the length grain on sleeve section.

Following the formation and marking of each nylon pattern section, thepattern darts marked on the nylon fabric sections are all pinnedtogether on the outside and the sleeve pattern is machine basted.

After this, the tubular jersey 42 is removed from the kit and donned bythe model. If needed, a string is tied around the Waist to make thejersey conform to the body. Then the following conventional dressmakingpoints and lines are marked onto the models body:

1. high point 62 juncture of neck and shoulder approximately 1 inchbehind lobe of ear,

2. shoulder point 64 outer edge of shoulder bone (or where the sleeve isto be set in),

3. shoulder seam 66 between the above two points,

4. front armhole seam (not shown) from shoulder point down to armcrease,

5. back armhole seam 68 from shoulder point down to arm crease,

6. neckline 72 front and back,

7. armhole depth 74 inch below armpit,

8. crossgrain (not shown) front chest (4 inches below mid-shoulderseam),

9. crossgrain 76 back armpit level,

10. crossgrain 78 right arm armpit level, and

l 1. length grain 82 right arm.

The following points are marked on the jersey:

1. center front and center back lines 86,

2. side seam lines,

3. bust points (not shown), and

4. crossgrain 92 at derriere level front and back.

In this connection, it should be noted that the shoulder seam should lieon the crest of the shoulder and, in profile, should dissect the body.The side seam should be a continuation of the shoulder seam and in linewith the middle finger when the models arm hangs at her side. Also, astring should be tied around the body, high in the armpit area, as aguide for the armpit crossgrain. In the event the model has a low orsway-back, scotch tape can be placed on the string at the waist to holdit in position.

After the body and jersey are marked as aforementioned, the variousnylon pattern sections are fitted to the body, starting with the backbodice section P as shown in FIG. 4. More particularly, the fabricmaterial is sprayed with adhesive from can 36 contained in the kit 32and then positioned on the armpit line 76 and center back line 86inscribed on the model. These cross and length grain lines should bekept firmly in position when fitting. The dressmaker then smooths thefabric pattern from the back armhole to the shoulder point and fits theshoulder dart. Next she smooths the pattern at the underarm seam andwaist and fits the waist dart.

All seam lines are then marked in red to indicate the right sidefollowing the lines on the models body. The fabric pattern is thenremoved from the body and the dart lines are marked.

Next, the back bodice fabric section is sprayed with adhesive on theoutside and molded to the left side of the body. The body is checked fordisproportion and the section remarked if necessary. Any of thesechanges are marked in black, signifying the left side. If the left sideof the body is extremely different from the right, a separate patternshould be molded in the same way as described above for the right side.If the model has particular body singularities such as prominentshoulder blades, hollow back, etc., the various darts are enlarged orredirected and seam lines changed as needed to obtain a proper fit.

Next, the front bodice pattern is sprayed with adhesive and positionedon the chest and center front lines (not shown) marked on the modelsbody. These cross and length grain lines should also be kept in positionwhen fitting. The neck and armhole lines 72 and 68 are indicated onthe'pattern fabric and these lines are desirably clipped into for betterfit as seen on the rear bodice section in FIG. 4. Following this, thepattern is smoothed to the waist and the underbust dart whichcorresponds to the dart 98 on the commercial pattern illustrated in FIG.3 is repositioned, ending approximately one inch from the bust point 102also shown in that pattern. The pattern fabric is smoothed to'the sideseam and the side dart is repinned. This is the dart that corresponds todart 104 on the FIG. 3 commercial pat-.

tern. This dart should also end approximately one inch from the bustpoint 102. Then all of the seam lines are marked on the fabric in red tosignify the right side as was done with the back bodice section,following which the front bodice pattern section is removed from thebody and the dart lines marked thereon. Then, the pattern is molded tothe left side of the body and remarked in black as was done with theback bodice. Again, if there are any figure singularities, these may beaccommodated by enlarging or repositioning the darts or allowingmoreease in the pattern.

Similar steps are followed with the back skirt fabric section and thefront skirt fabric section. Each section is first sprayed with adhesiveand positioned on the derriere line 92 and either the center front line(not shown) or the center back line 86, is smoothed to the body with thewaist darts fitted and positioned as needed to accommodate singularitiesin that body area.

Finally, the sleeve pattern section (not shown) is sprayed with adhesivein the cap only and positioned on the armpit and legnth grain lines 78and 82, respec' tively. The pattern section is fit for comfort at the bicep, elbow and wrist. The dressmaker molds the cap to the top of thearm, creasing for appropriate ease. The pattern section is markedfollowing the armhole lines on the body and notches are marked at theshoulder seam, chest line, front and approximately one inch above theback armpit line 76. Then the models elbow is bent and the elbow andwrist length marked on the fabric pattern section.

The dressmaker unpins the darts on the pattern and corrects the lineswith the aid of straight and curved rulers. As noted above, some easehas been included when molding the various pattern sections. Desirably,the following additional case should be added for movement:

I. 42 inch to side seams of bodice back and front,

2. /8 inch to length at waist,

3. inch to side seams of skirt at area level tapering to 41 inch atwaist. back and front, and

4. Vs inch to sleeve cap.

Then all of the pattern sections are stitched together with all seamsand darts on the inside and the pattern tested for comfort. If more caseis needed, this should be added. Next. a sheet of paper folded to oneinch wide is placed high in the armpit and the underseam line remarkedat the lower edge. The sleeve pattern section is then stitched into thearmhole and tested for comfort. Using a yardstick, the balance line ismarked all around the skirt at the derriere level. The pattern. is thenremoved and marked. clearly to indicate all corrections and seam. lines,endsof seam lines, darts, etc. and carefully taken apart.

Next the dressmaker takes the roll of fabric-laminate material 3.8 fromkit 32 and lays it, foam side down, on a flat surface. Then each fabricpattern sectionis laid on top of the laminate, outside ,up. Patternadhesive may be sprayed on the pattern to hold .it in position. Then thepattern outline, center front line 46, center back line 48, darts 98 and104, butt point 102 and balance lines are transferred to the laminate.with a felt tip pen which will penetrate the nylon patternmaterial.Care-'should be taken not to distort the fabric pattern material bypressing too hard with the pen. Following this, the laminate is cut onthe outline except at the .back and front necklines and armholes wherethere is left a /8 inch seam allowance. Then the darts are cut outand-all of the darts and seams are stitched together with a .waxeddouble thread. When sewing the darts,

their edges are butted together and an overcast or followed i .3. sideseams from the waistline up to the underarm from the-waistline down tothe bot-tom, and" 4. shoulder seams. i Upon completion of the form, ifthe waistline will not hold its shape, the skirt section may be foldedup on the bodice and featherboning hand-stitched to the 'waistline seam.

The form may then be supported on the wastebasket 12 as shown in FIG. 1.For this, an S'inch Wide strip of polyethylene may be pinned around thetop of the has ket with the top half width of th strip being flippedinside the wastebasket which is'weighted with suitable magazines, etc.

When the dressmaker makes her first dress, she should select a simplestyle of commercial pattern 'and use a non-stretchable fabric. First shecorrects the pat tern for the right side. If there is a differencebetween the right and leftsides of body, these corrections can be markedwith a red felt-tipped pin on the rightside. Then the pattern is turnedover and another color pen used for marking the corrections for the leftside. In many cases, the differences between the two sides of the bodieswill be so minimal that they can be ignored. Then the dressmaker marks/8 inch seam allowances to all seams except the side seams which may bemarked one inch wide. Then she measures down from the balance line onthe pattern to the length of skirt required plus the hem and marks thecutting line. The fabric is then cut and the darts and shoulder seamsstitched and the side seams basted. Then she should try on the dress andany alterations which she considers must be made should be noted also onthe form.

Although the size of a commercial pattern to be corrected is notimportant, it is easier to alter the size which is closest to that ofthe front bodice of the form. In this connection, the extra paper fromthe pattern should not be trimmed until the user finds that it will notbe needed for the alterations. The pattern section for the front bodiceshould be altered first. Its center line should be placed in position onthe form and the pattern pinned to the form in the position which willnecessitate the least correction of lines and points.

Next the pattern is smoothed from the neck to the underarm dart. Thatdart, which may need to be enlarged, made smaller, raised or lowered tocorrespond with the form, is then pinned. Usually the dart should bedirected toward the bust point but ending approximately one inch away.

The waist dart is then pinned and the pattern pinned at the side seam.Following this, the seam lines are corrected with a felt-tip tocorrespond with the seam lines of the form and the bust point and anynew stitching lines for the darts are indicated. Then, leaving the frontbodice pattern positioned on the form for reference, the back bodice andskirt are corrected.

More particularly, the back bodice is placed in position with its centerline corresponding to that on the form and the pattern pinned to theform in the position which will necessitate the least correction oflines. With the cross grain lines level at the armhole, the pattern issmoothed to the shoulder and the dart pinned, altering it as necessary.Also, the dressmaker pins in the waistline dart and the pattern at theside seam. She then corrects the seam lines and the dart stitching linesof the back bodice. lf correction has been made to a neckline of thefront bodice, the back bodice neckline and shoulder seam must becorrected accordingly. The center front line of the skirt is then pinnedon the form at the waist and the pattern smoothed out to the side seamwhich should curve gradually into the waist. Additional darting oreasing should be made if needed in the waist seam.

If the width of the pattern at the high hip level is corrected, the sideseam should be redrawn to the hem in accordance with the style of thepattern. Then the balance line should be drawn on the pattern tocorrespond with that form. Followingthis, the skirt back pattern shouldbe pinned on the form at the waist and the pattern smoothed out to theside seam. The side seams should curve gradually into the waist.Additional darting or easing should be made, if needed, in the waistseam. If the width of the pattern at the high hip level is corrected,the side seam should be redrawn to the hem in accordance with the styleof the pattern. Then the balance line should be drawn on the pattern tocorrespond with that of the form. Following this, the skirt patternshould be pinned on the form and similar corrections made to completethe alterations for the commercial pattern.

When the commercial pattern is corrected as afore said to accommodatethe models figure singularities and to allow for ease and comfort, thedressmaker can make a dress from the corrected commercial pattern in theusual way.

It will be seen from the foregoing, then, that a dress form made inaccordance with my method considerably simplifies the ability of theaverage person to make well-fitting garments from a commercial pattern.Using the components and directions found in the abovedescribed kit, thedressmaker can make the form in her own home, allowing for any figuresingularities or abnormalities in the model for the form, and alsoallowing for the needed ease and comfort required by the particularwearer. This obviates the necessity of correcting commercial patterns ofdiffering styles to take these factors into consideration. Accordingly,the subject kit and dress form should be invaluable tools for thoseinterested in custom dressmaking.

lt will thus be seen that the objects set forth above, among those madeapparent from the preceding description, are efficiently attained and,since certain changes may be made in carrying out the above method andin the construction set forth above without departing from the scope ofthe invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the abovedescription or shown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted asillustrative and not in a limiting sense.

For example, instead of stitching the darts and seam lines of thelaminate to make the completed form, a strong, colored adhesive tape maybe used for that purpose which will also mark the seam or dart location.Also, the cost of the kit may be lessened by substituting for the spraycan and nylon fabric, a sheet of polytetrafluoroethylene (Saran) or thelike plastic which has electrostatic attractive qualities that willcause it to conform and adhere to the models body.

It is also to be understood that the following claims are intended tocover all of the generic and specific features of the invention hereindescribed.

I claim:

1. A kit for making a custom dress form comprises in combination apackaging container containing a stretchable, tubular jersey for wearingon a models torso, a sheet of thin, flexible fabric material ofsufficient size to form the components of a standard garment pattern, acontainer containing a spray adhesive for application to the fabricmaterial to adhere the material to the jersey, a sheet of fabric-foamlaminate material comparable in size to the sheet of fabric material,

and instructions for combining the materials and adhe-

1. A kit for making a custom dress form comprises in combination apackaging container containing a stretchable, tubular jersey for wearingon a model''s torso, a sheet of thin, flexible fabric material ofsufficient size to form the components of a standard garment pattern, acontainer containing a spray adhesive for application to the fabricmaterial to adhere the material to the jersey, a sheet of fabric-foamlaminate material comparable in size to the sheet of fabric material,and instructions for combining the materials and adhesive and jersey tomake the form.
 2. The kit defined in claim 1 in which the fabricmaterial is nylon.